The two-lane highway teeters around the corner, breezing by dry scrub brush and golden grasses. Summer heat has baked the hillsides, leaving crisp vegetation and wilting evergreens to wait for returning rainfall. Rangelands, occupied by horses and cattle, pock the slopes. Houses are few and far between; a scant winery entrance marked by a mailbox sign breaks up the monotony of curving asphalt. A road sign indicates miles to Lake Berryessa and Winters... not Napa.

But, you're in Napa Valley--technically. It's one of the subtleties of the way regions are named. Though "Napa Valley" implies that it's one valley, the name actually encompasses several mountains (including Atlas Peak and Spring Mountain) and other valleys-including Chiles Valley.

Chiles Valley is different. Development hasn't reached this area yet, at least not in terms of big tourist destinations and wineries. Visitors to Chiles Valley enjoy the change of pace from frenetic Oakville and St. Helena, where stock farms, not downtowns, compete with vineyards for space. And, it's not clear who's winning judging by the landscape.

Check out any wine retailer and it might be hard to figure out if the grapes were grown in Chiles Valley. Wineries here have the right to use either name, Napa or Chiles. And, with all of the marketing behind the name Napa, wineries tend to lean more towards the Napa name. Quietly, though, tons of quality grapes are being harvested from this pastoral region and they are going into Napa Valley bottles.

The Chiles Valley is a narrow valley east of Rutherford and is home to a handful of wineries. One, in particular, RustRidge Winery, is an area grape grower that proudly displays the Chiles Valley location on their label. The winery owners were the first to plant Chardonnay there, but the area is mostly known for Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Zinfandel. RustRidge grows some of these wines as well, and all of the vineyards are well divided by asymmetrically corrals and barns.

RustRidge Winery is a perfect fit in Chiles Valley. The property is part dude ranch, part winery and part bed and breakfast. Guests are treated to rooms that are attached to back patios covered in fragrant grapevines-all connected by a long hallway to the California ranch house's cozy kitchen. The atmosphere is decidedly relaxed, no fancy cellars or ornate entries. Residents are quite fond of the authenticity that the Chiles Valley has to offer. It's a nice retreat from the sometimes too popular Napa Valley. Visit www.rustridge.com for more information.