Some of the most ardent non-cooks I know throw some of the best nibbles-and-sips parties around. How do they pull it off? They choose some great cheeses, put out an array of wines, and swing open the door.

These party-masters know that amazing cheeses have a way of getting conversations going, and wine generally helps the talk take off, too. The trick is to move beyond Brie-as fine as that famous cheese is, most guests have "been there, done that" by now.

Still, you don't want to go too far "out there" with your choices, either. I'm personally a huge fan of big, smelly cheese (by the way, cheese lovers use the term "smelly" affectionately), but last time I served Epoisses and a real French Munster (both very smelly), my guests huddled in a corner far away from the appetizer table.

What I love to do is to serve a cheese that seems somewhat familiar, but is actually something a little more interesting than what guests expect-inviting, yet surprising. Three cheeses that turn heads again and again are Point Reyes Original Blue, Sweet Grass Dairy "Green Hill," and a good white Cheddar from Cabot Creamery. Pair them with just the right wines, and swing open the door.

POINT REYES BLUE (pictured above): It may look like any blue cheese, but oh, the flavor! You can pick up that sweet-pasture taste that comes from being handcrafted on a true dairy farm. This one would go great with a hearty Chianti Classico, such as Ruffino Aziano ($12.99). Or try it after dinner with a port, such as Dow's 2000 Late Bottled Vintage Port ($20).

SWEET GRASS DAIRY'S GREEN HILL (pictured above): This looks a little like Brie, but it's more lush and creamy than most imported versions of that classic French cheese. Pair this one with this shipment's Richard the Lionheart. Or try it with a Tawny Port, such Dow's Ten-Year Aged Tawny ($29).

CABOT CREAMERY WHITE CHEDDAR CHEESE: If you've never tried a handcrafted Vermont cheddar cheese, you must! They're richer, creamier, and bolder than most commercial varieties. Try Cabot Cheddar with a fruity red, such as Beaujolais or a lighter-style Syrah.