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Why Blends?

Looking on wine-shop shelves, you've probably noticed that most domestic bottles are labeled by the grape-Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, and the like. Yet lately, some more curious monikers, like "Big House White," "Wild Bunch," and "Red Truck"-are showing up, without a grape name in sight. What's up?

 

Our favorite wines have flavor to savor, with balance, ripeness, and that delicious finish that lingers. However, not all single variety grape wines can deliver what today's demanding wine consumers desire. Some lack enough fruit to be yummy, other wines can stop short with a bitter end. Bring in the art of blending, where grapes serve as the winemaker's fix-it palette.

 

First, let's get one thing straight: blends are far from new. For centuries, the French have been making a fine living with their wine blends (think Bordeaux-usually made up of a couple of grapes, like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot). Other classic wines-from Italy's Chianti to Spain's Rioja-may be anchored by a dominant grape, but usually have a bit of something else thrown in to make it a better bottle.

 

What's new in the mix is that today's blends are combining less-traditional dancing partners. Mixed in among the classic pairings are wild newcomers. Instead of Cabernet Franc and Merlot (a traditional Bordeaux pairing), you'll see Zinfandel and Syrah. With Chardonnay you'll find Viognier happily added, resulting in a surprising nose full of peaches and apples. And, the Australians unabashedly produce newfangled blends that star the grapes front and center, with Shiraz-Merlot or Cabernet-Shiraz wines crowding shelves from Sydney to Ft. Lauderdale.

 

We've heard from wine lovers the good and the bad about blends. Some think they're just cheap wines, easy sippers without pedigree. While it's true wine blends can be approachable, friendly, and fun (like the blend in this month's shipment), don't count them all in the easy-sipping category. Some over-the-moon expensive wines like Opus One are blends, too, but with grip and age-worthiness that are more about thoughtful pondering than light-hearted everyday pleasures.

 

Next time you are looking for a wine that veers off the beaten path, try a blend. A good way to start is to try one that features your favorite grape mixed with some new buddies. You'll be surprised at how good they can be, and how ideal they are for get-togethers with friends or simply for dinner tonight.

 
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